| Application & Adoption Policy |
| Application & Adoption Policy |
Thank you for your consideration in potentially adopting one or more of our
puppies. Please read our Puppy Application and Adoption Policy before filling
out our application. A complete application is required from all prospective buyers.
We reserve the right to not place a puppy with anyone we choose, for any reason.
If we decide not to place a puppy for any reason, we will refund any payments
or deposits. If the buyer backs out on a puppy for any reason...
The deposit will NOT be refunded!!!
In addition, we also require a verbal conversation with any prospective buyer, prior to
approving a home or accepting a deposit. Upon receiving a Puppy Application, we are
willing to make the first attempt to make verbal contact. It is the responsibility of the
applicant to make any other attempts. If you do not receive a call back with in 48
hours of leaving a message. Please try again. Our number is (208)431-6203.
Once a applicant is approved and a puppy has been chosen, not only by looks, but by
temperament and adaptability to it's potential new owners and environment, we
require a NON-REFUNDABLE deposit in the form of cashier's check or Pay Pal with
an additional 3.9 % charge added to payments. Once a verbal agreement has been
made, we will wait 3-5 business days on a deposit before returning a puppy to
available status. We are not willing to hold puppies with out deposits, so don't ask.
Once a puppy has been chosen and a deposit is received, weekly pictures and updates
will be sent of your puppy so you can keep up on it's progress and growth. Deposits are
$500 on Limited AKC Pet registration and $800.00 for puppies on full AKC Show or
Co-owners registration; which is to be paid no later than 3-5 days before delivery of
the puppy. Payment plans are accepted, but the puppy will NOT be delivered or received
until full payment has been made. We rarely give full registration on our puppies. All
pet puppies are sold on limited AKC registration with spay/neuter contracts. We
require that all pet puppies be spayed/neutered by at least 24 months of age, unless a
prior verbal agreement with us has been made about earlier or later sterilization,
NO EXCEPTIONS. We require veterinarian confirmation that the puppy has been
altered. We take our contracts very seriously. We hold limited AKC registration papers
until we receive proof that the puppy has been altered. Once we receive proof from a
licensed veterinarian we mail your limited AKC registration papers to you via Postal
Mail. If we do not receive confirmation by the required 24 months of age that the said
puppy has in fact been altered health guarantee will become completely void & we
reserve the right to remove the puppy from the buyers possession/premiss by any
means necessary , with no refund of the purchase price or cost of damages to the
breeder. When purchasing a puppy from Silver Sage Danes , we require that the buyer
keep us updated and send photos on a regular basis. Your Health Guarantee and any
contract agreement may be voided, if you do not keep us updated on your puppy. This
also includes keeping us updated of your current address and phone numbers. We have
a PUPPY RETURN POLICY in our contract. If for any reason the buyer is unable or is
no longer willing to care for their Silver Sage puppy/dog, it must be returned to Silver
Sage Danes with no cost to the breeder in any way along with its AKC registration
/certificate, this is so we can find proper placement and keep our puppies off the
streets, out of shelters, and in permanent, loving homes. If you wish to place your
puppy/dog in a new home on your own then you must have my prior written or verbal
consent and you must provide me with all new buyers information. Health guarantee
is valid for original purchaser only unless puppy returned is placed by me. We
require all puppies to have 'Silver Sage's' at the beginning of the registered name on
the AKC registration /AKC certificate. We require that all puppies be paid in full by 8
1/2 weeks of age , if you need more time you will need written or verbal approval from
us . When shipping puppies, we will make arrangements to take all puppies being
shipped, to the airport at one time. If you are not able to accept your puppy on the day
we schedule for airline drop off, then you may be asked to pay a fuel/service fee for the
return trip to the airport. Our normal shipping day will be on a Friday, Saturday, or
Sunday . Puppy must be at least 8 weeks old to fly by law and for the protection and
safety of it's health. SHIPPING IS WEATHER PERMITTING ONLY! Please be
prepared to pick up your puppy in person, if we are unable to ship due to temperature
restrictions deposits will not be refunded due to us not being able to ship for any
reason, but we will try every shipping option available ~ however there may be an
additional cost. Normal shipping fee is $350-$650 (depending on mileage, customs,
or puppies weight) this includes: *shipping crate*health guarantee *plane ticket &
also helps with mileage and gas costs for us to get to the airport, which is 2 1/2 hours
away in one direction.
If we have to board your puppy past 16 weeks of age, we may require a per day
boarding fee of $10/day.
ALL PUPPIES WILL BE VET CHECKED, MICROCHIPPED AND HAVE HAD AT
LEAST THE FIRST& SECOND SERIES OF VACCINATIONS & MULTIPLE
WORMINGS BY 10 WEEKS OF AGE. ALL PUPPIES ARE HAND RAISED AND
WILL BE GIVEN PLENTY OF ONE ON ONE LOVE AND ATTENTION. THEY WILL
BE WELL SOCIALIZED WITH ADULTS, CHILDREN AND OTHER DOGS. EACH
PUPPY IS TEMPERAMENT/PERSONALITY TESTED AT 6-7 WEEKS OF AGE. WE
WILL BEGIN BASIC OBEDIENCE ,LEASH & HOUSE /CRATE INTRODUCTION AT
5-6 WEEKS. NO PUPPY WILL BE AVAILABLE TO LEAVE THE NEST UNTIL THEY
ARE AT LEAST 10 WEEKS OF AGE .
All Puppies are sold on Contracts - No Exceptions. We reserve the right to make
changes to this policy at any time, without any prior notification.
If you have any questions or concerns about our polices, ethics or adoption process,
please feel free to email or call us anytime. There are no dumb questions and you are
in no way bothering us by asking one or hundreds of questions. We want our puppies
new owner's to feel confident and have the correct knowledge and support in order to
bring a Great Dane into their family. We want to have a trusting bond and friendship
with you for many years to come.
Breeding Philosophy
Silver Sage Danes pre- screens all prospective buyers and do our best to ensure they are
prepared for all that is involved in owning and raising one of these remarkable
animals. Great Danes are a truly unique and remarkable breed & with that comes
great responsibility. But the rewards are also great & it’s truly a privilege to share one’
s life with one of these magnificent animals.
Each puppy leaves here well socialized, spoiled, and loved a tremendous amount! Our
puppies are handled and loved on extensively from day one. I take great care to ensure
that they are exposed to just about everything that they will come in contact with in
their new homes.
If you think that one of our puppy(s) could potentially be the perfect good fit for you
and your family, please contact us via e-mail or call us at (208)431-6203 and/or fill
out our puppy application. I am more than happy to provide you with references and
additional information from any of our past puppy owners. Once I have spoken with
you, had a chance to review your application & call your references; I will let you know
whether or not you and your family have been selected for one of our puppies. I do my
best to select only the very best homes and families for my furry, four-legged kids.
I take the job of placing my puppies in their new homes EXTREMELY seriously! They
don’t just go to the first person with money! I plan to keep in touch with each and
everyone one of our puppies new families. It is extremely important to me to know how
our Danes are doing, physically and emotionally. I put my whole heart, care, and love
into caring and raising them before they leave on to their new adventures. Being able
to know how they are growing and developing, helps us to improve on our breeding
program and ensure that we are producing the ‘perfect’ Dane, physically and
emotionally.
I cannot stress enough about the importance in researching and learning as much as
you can on this breed before bringing one into your life. There are a lot of wonderful
resources on the internet, the library, the book store as well as talking to other Dane
owners and breeders. I also can email you some wonderful information I have compiled
over the years, that I send out to all my puppies new owners. I wonderful information I
have compiled over the years, that I send out to all my puppies new owners. I expect and
want the new owners to feel confident and ready to raise, care, love, and spoil their new
Dane puppy.
Puppy Names
While the puppies are in our care we give them their names, for our record purposes
only. We love our babies and become very attached to them. You are free to keep the
name we have given or are welcome to change it.
Puppy Prices
Blue: (pet/lmtd. reg.) $1800-$2500, co-ownership (show/full reg.) $3000-$4000
Black: (pet/lmtd. reg.) $1500-$2200, co-ownership (show/full reg.) $2500-$3500
I breed and raise Dane puppies, because I love and have a deep passion for this breed. I
do not make a living or money off them. It takes a lot of money and time to care for a
litter of puppies before and after their arrival. The expenses begin way before both
parents are ready to breed. Both parents are tested: cardiac, thyroid panel, OFA
certified elbows and hips, Bruccelosis tested and current on vaccination. The feed
costs to feed a pregnant, nursing Dane and growing puppies is not cheap by any
means, I only feed the highest quality of food and treats. I hire a pet dietician to
assist in our feeding program, ensuring that each of our Danes is getting the proper
nutrition that is appropriate for them. They are given all the appropriate worming and
vaccinations before leaving for their new homes. I want their immune systems as
strong as possible for the upcoming stress of going to a new environment. At 8 weeks
they go in for their health examination and micro-chipping. If for any reason from
the time they’re born to the time they leave they require vet care they are taken in.
Then there is the costs of advertising and keep my website up to date. Your phone bill
goes up, as well as your electric bill trying to keep everyone warm and cool. Their
bedding is changed on a daily basis, shavings cost money, cleaning supplies,
blankets, toys, and paper towels. Oh and who could forget someone’s got to feed the
puppies parents all years before a litter ever hits the ground. The puppies come with
toys, treats, leash, collar, some food and extensive informational packet. It costs
money to register a litter with AKC. There’s so many little expenses, many of which I
haven’t listed, especially all the countless hours of labor, truly making this a labor of
love! I don’t think people realize all the expenses, both big and small that are required
to raise and care for a superior quality litter of puppies. I came out $150.00 ahead
once…. I bought all my Danes new toys! So that’s the method to my madness…try not
to end up in the hole too deep!
Limited Registration
All pet/companion puppies are sold with limited registration; on a mandatory
spay/neuter contract. Proof of spay/neuter from your vet must be provided to me by
the time the puppy reaching 12 months old. If proof of spay/neuter is not received
within the allotted time frame, the 4 year health guarantee will be null and void and
you will not receive your puppies AKC registration papers.
Full Registration
Experienced Show Home: Show marked and show temperament puppies that will be
available to an experienced show home and will not require a co-ownership. We will
however require that the puppies registered name begin with our kennel name: Silver
Sage’s…
Inexperienced Show Home: Show marked puppies may be available to an inexperienced
show home. However I will require a co-ownership. Upon the completion of a successful
AKC or International Championship title I will remove my name from the dog’s
registration and you will be the sole owner of the dog. If you are “approved” for one of
our puppies with the intention of showing we require that the puppies registered name
begin with our kennel name: Silver Sage’s…
Breeding Home: Breeding homes will be considered on a case by case basis. If you are
“approved” for a puppy we require that the sire or dam is pre-screened for health or
temperament problems; that the beginning of the puppies registered name start with
our kennel name: Silver Sage’s; also we are to be informed before any breeding takes
place of potential sire/dam that you are considering for breeding to. They have to be
pre-approved by me first and I must have information and background on the genetics
and breeder you are working with. *you must be an exceptional home as I have yet
only placed two of my puppies with full registration & that was on a co-own to a show
home*
Requirements
We require the following:
You must keep us informed of the puppy/dogs health (physical and mental) and
provide pictures/updates on a regular basis. I’d prefer that you do it willingly but I
know life gets busy. So if I’m curious I’ll call or email you for an update.
To be kept informed of the puppies current address, email and phone numbers for the
life of the puppy/dog.
You must provide your puppy with all routine/necessary medical care.
Your puppy/dog will be kept as an inside pet.
That you take your puppy to the vet within 72 hours of his/her arrival in your
possession, otherwise health guarantee will be null and void unless other arrangements
have been made. Your puppy, while in our care will have had a minimum of 3 vet
visits. If any other visits are required they will be taken in.
That your puppy/dog will be returned to us if at any point in the life of the puppy/dog
you are no longer able to care for him/her. I hope that, that never happens but I DO
NOT want my puppies/dogs to be placed in shelters or bounced around for the
remainder of their life.
Reward Program
We offer a reward program to our new puppy owners. When you have successfully
competed in agility, obedience competitions or have completed a CGC, Therapy Dog
training program or have successfully titled your dog in the AKC or International
conformation ring you will be eligible for up to a $100.00 refund from us for your
efforts. If it is your intention to do any of the following with your puppy let us know
when you first inquire and we can help you get started or gather information about
fulfilling these titles.
We also offer a referral reward program to our new puppy owners. If you recommend
family or friends to adopt a puppy from us and are approved and adopt a puppy from
us you will be eligible for up to a $100.00 refund for each puppy adopted from us by a
referral.
Deposits
We require a nonrefundable fee of $500.00-$800.00 to hold your puppy. The money
you put down to hold your puppy is applied towards the purchase of the puppy you
choose. However if you are unable, for ANY reason to buy your puppy your
$300.00-$500.00 will not be refunded so please be sure that you are ready for this
commitment! However if we change our mind about you the money will be refunded.
The deposit for puppies placed with limited registration is $500.00, puppies placed
with full registration is $800.00. Deposits/Payments must be made in the form of
cash, postal money orders, visa, or debit cards (3.9% additional fee). We no longer
acceptchecks. Paypal is also an option but you must also include an additional 3.9%
additional fee to cover the Paypal fees.
Puppies must be paid for in full by the time they reach 7 weeks old unless, other
arrangements have been made. Payment plans can be arranged, but puppy has to be
paid in full before delivery.
Delivery of puppies
I am open to delivering puppies to their new homes or meeting new puppy parents
within a reasonable distance. An additional fuel charge might be added, pending on
the distance I will have to travel to meet with you.
Shipping
I do prefer that all our puppies stay local but will not deny my puppies a fabulous
home because of distance. If I do ship I prefer it to be within the USA, but may
consider other areas. If you’re interested contact me and we’ll go from there. Many
people contact us about the safety and process of flying their new puppies to them. I
have flown many Danes out and also in, with no permanent, physical, or
psychological damage ever. It is a very safe, reliable and easy way to deliver puppies
that are way beyond the means of ground delivery for myself and the new owners. If
it was not safe or if I did not feel comfortable doing so, believe me I would never put
one of my ‘babies’ through it. I worry just as much about shipping them as do the new
owners. They are placed in an airline regulation crate, large enough for the puppy to
stand, turn around, and sit comfortably. They are sent with food and water, if the
situation should arrive of a longer than normal lay over. They are placed in a special
cargo area, not with the luggage, that is heated/cooled, pending on the weather. They
also can be accessed and checked on while the flight is in the air if need be. They are
the very last thing loaded on the plane and the first thing taken off. They
occasionally are ‘messy’ when they arrive, but for the most part they just want to run
around for a minute and then snuggle up in your lap and take a good long nap. If
you are still worried or have concerns about this please feel free to contact us for
another possible delivery service or to have any questions answered.
All shipping expenses are the responsibility of the buyer & must be paid in full by the
time the puppy is 8 weeks old. An estimate figure for shipping, crate, health
certificate ranges from is about $375.00 - $ 650.00.00, depending on location and
size of the puppy (within the USA).
Puppy Care Package
Your puppy will leave here in good health, happy & pre-spoiled with his/her age
appropriate
shot(s), wormed, micro- chipped, bathed and nails trimmed. Along with your puppy,
you will receive from us a packet with the following contents: leash, collar, several
toys, treats, food sample, an extensive informational CD (I highly recommend you
read over it contents several times), vaccination history and future dates for
vaccinations needed and pedigree.
Inherited and other health concerns in the Great Dane
The following health conditions have been identified in the Great Dane. Items so
marked * can be identified through testing and Silver Sage Danes test each breeding
Dane has performed and cleared before being considered for breeding. Screening tests
are not currently available for the other conditions listed. Conditions thought to
involve significant & direct inheritance are noted. For those purchasing a pet or
intending to breed: it is important to know the health status before breeding any dog
or bitch. Clinically affected dogs, i.e., those dogs exhibiting symptoms for conditions
considered serious and heritable should generally NOT be bred and health screenings
(where available) are certainly recommend. Please note that the text below is intended
as an aid to those seeking health information on the breed, and should not be used to
form a diagnosis replacing regular veterinary care by a qualified veterinarian.
DCM: CARDIOMYOPATHY - is suspected to be an inherited disease in the Great Dane
and current (preliminary) research indicates that this disease may be sex-linked in
our breed. Research is ongoing. An echocardiogram of the heart will confirm the
disease but will not guarantee that the disease will not develop in the future. Regular
exams on breeding stock are recommended. There are some congenital heart defects
also occasionally found in the breed. For an in-depth article on the subject, see “Heart
Disease in the Great Dane.”
K9HD: HIP DYSPLASIA - is an inherited disease with multi-factorial expression.
Clinically the disease may be seen as simply poor rear end conformation or lessened
athleticism to such malformation of the hip joint that the dog becomes crippled. It is
recommended that breeding stock be X-rayed as normal. OFA and Penn HIP both offer
certification programs.
HYPOTHYROIDISM - in dogs is generally the result of a heritable disorder of the
immune system. This condition results when the thyroid gland is not producing
enough hormones to adequately maintain the dog’s metabolism. Happily, it is easily
treated with thyroid replacement pills. Thyroid testing (T4, TSH and auto
antibodies) on breeding stock should be performed on a routine basis. Finding auto
antibodies to thyroglobulin is normally an indication that the dog has autoimmune
thyroiditis. Low thyroid dogs, manifested by a high TSH and a low T4, should be
treated and monitored on a regular basis. Dogs with confirmed thyroid abnormalities
should not be bred.
CATARACTS - although not common, cataracts have been described in the Great Dane
and can be blinding. Eyelid abnormalities (e.g. entropion) are also not unheard of in
the breed. For breeding stock a CERF exam can insure that the eyes are normal in all
aspects.
GDV:BLOAT - is the number one killer of Great Danes & Great Danes are the #1 breed
at risk for bloat. For reasons not fully understood, in certain deep-chested breeds in
particular, the stomach distends, then has a tendency to rotate, which cuts off the
blood supply to various parts of the body, as well as effectively shutting down
digestion. This condition is extremely painful as well as a true emergency that is
rapidly life-threatening. A dog with a bloated, twisted stomach (technically called
“Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus”) will die in great pain in a matter of hours unless
drastic steps are taken: surgery is normally necessary. The reasons for GDV are
currently not understood, however most would agree that multiple small meals per day
and preventing vigorous exercise around mealtimes can help reduce the chances of
bloat. Many breeders and owners of Great Danes consider a surgery called a
prophylactic gastropexy (”preventative tack”) which can help prevent some of the more
serious aspects of GDV. Discuss this with your veterinarian and your Dane’s breeder.
CANCER: Danes can suffer from a variety of cancers as do many other breeds of dogs
as well as many mixed breed dogs. Bone cancer (osteosarcoma) and lymphoma appear
to be the two forms of cancer most commonly seen in the Great Dane, and along with
heart disease and bloat (GDV), cancer is a leading cause of death in Great Danes.
Research into both types of cancer is ongoing and treatment options are improving
every day.
CVI: Wobblers - is a result of pressure on the spinal cord in the neck region and results
in a “drunken” gait & increasing instability. It is thought to result from a
combination of nutritional effects and inherited traits and is considered a form of
DOD (Developmental Osteodystrophy) along with such as OCD. Great Danes are
considered at risk for Wobblers. CVI stands for Cervical Vertebral Instability.
HOD and Pano - these are painful conditions of the bones that occur during the rapid
growth phase of puppy hood causing lameness and general malaise. By far HOD is the
more serious one and can be deadly. Pano is usually self-limiting and may not need
treatment. HOD stands for Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy. Pano is short for Panosteitis.
Height & Weight Data for Danes
Please keep in mind when reading the chart below that all puppies follow their own
guide & grow at their own rate. This is just a general guide. Some Danes may
actually be smaller/weigh less than this chart indicates while others may weigh more.
Dane puppies need to stay slim as they are more prone to joint & bone problems than
the smaller breed dogs.
Less is better when it comes to the first year. All Danes fed adequately will eventually
reach their genetic height & weight. Don’t rush to own the biggest Dane baby on the
block. A Dane won’t reach their mature size until about 2-3 years old. It is vital to
have a slow, steady growth process.
A good way to gauge your individual puppy’s growth is that they should be “ribby”
and slightly “flanky” (a little on the lean side, with the ribs & hip bones not evident).
You should be able to feel the ribs/hip bones but not see them.
Birth Weight 1-2 lbs
Week 1 2-3 lbs
Week 2 3-5 lbs
Week 3 4-7 lbs
Week 4 5-8 lbs
Week 6 12-20 lbs
Month 2 18-27 lbs 13-17 in
Month 3 30-45 lbs 17-22 in
Month 4 50-65 lbs 21-25 in
Month 5 65-85 lbs 25-30 in
Month 6 70-100 lbs 27-33 in
Month 7 75-110 lbs 27-33 in
Month 8 80-115 lbs 27-34 in
Month 9 85-120 lbs 28-34 in
1 year 90-135 lbs 28-36 in
Full GrownTypical Male 140-170 lbs 33-36 in
Full GrownTypical Female 110-140 lbs 30-33 in
Great Dane Breed Standard
The Great Dane combines, in its regal appearance, dignity, strength and elegance with
great size and a powerful, well-formed, smoothly muscled body. It is one of the giant
working breeds, but is unique in that its general conformation must be so well
balanced that it never appears clumsy, and shall move with a long reach and powerful
drive. It is always a unit-the Apollo of dogs. A Great Dane must be spirited,
courageous, never timid; always friendly and dependable. This physical and mental
combination is the characteristic which gives the Great Dane the majesty possessed by
no other breed. It is particularly true of this breed that there is an impression of great
masculinity in dogs, as compared to an impression of femininity in bitches. Lack of
true Dane breed type, as defined in this standard, is a serious fault. Size, Proportion,
Substance.
The male should appear more massive throughout than the bitch, with larger frame and
heavier bone. In the ratio between length and height, the Great Dane should be square.
In bitches, a somewhat longer body is permissible, providing she is well proportioned to
her height. Coarseness or lack of substance are equally undesirable. The male shall not
be less than 30 inches at the shoulders, but it is preferable that he be 32 inches or more,
providing he is well proportioned to his height. The female shall not be less than 28
inches at the shoulders, but it is preferable that she be 30 inches or more, providing she
is well proportioned to her height. Danes under minimum height must be disqualified.
Head: The head shall be rectangular, long, distinguished, expressive, finely chiseled,
especially below the eyes. Seen from the side, the Dane’s forehead must be sharply set
off from the bridge of the nose, (a strongly pronounced stop). The plane of the skull
and the plane of the muzzle must be straight and parallel to one another. The skull
plane under and to the inner point of the eye must slope without any bony
protuberance in a smooth line to a full square jaw with a deep muzzle (fluttering lips
are undesirable). The masculinity of the male is very pronounced in structural
appearance of the head. The bitch’s head is more delicately formed. Seen from the top,
the skull should have parallel sides and the bridge of the nose should be as broad as
possible. The cheek muscles should not be prominent. The length from the tip of the
nose to the center of the stop should be equal to the length from the center of the stop to
the rear of the slightly developed occipital. The head should be angular from all sides
and should have flat planes with dimensions in proportion to the size of the Dane.
Whiskers may be trimmed or left natural.
Eyes: Shall be medium size, deep set, and dark, with a lively intelligent expression.
The eyelids are almond-shaped and relatively tight, with well developed brows. Haws
and mongolian eyes are serious faults. In harlequins, the eyes should be dark; light
colored eyes, eyes of different colors and walleyes are permitted but not desirable.
Ears: Shall be high set, medium in size and of moderate thickness, folded forward
close to the cheek. The top line of the folded ear should be level with the skull. If
cropped, the ear length is in proportion to the size of the head and the ears are carried
uniformly erect.
Nose: Shall be black, except in the blue Dane, where it is a dark blue-black. A black
spotted nose is permitted on the harlequin; a pink colored nose is not desirable. A split
nose is a disqualification.
Teeth: Shall be strong, well developed, clean and with full dentition. The incisors of
the lower jaw touch very lightly the bottoms of the inner surface of the upper incisors
(scissors bite). An undershot jaw is a very serious fault. Overshot or wry bites are
serious faults. Even bites, misaligned or crowded incisors are minor faults.
Neck, Topline, Body: The neck shall be firm, high set, well arched, long and muscular.
From the nape, it should gradually broaden and flow smoothly into the withers. The
neck underline should be clean. Withers shall slope smoothly into a short level back
with a broad loin. The chest shall be broad, deep and well muscled. The forechest should
be well developed without a pronounced sternum. The brisket extends to the elbow, with
well sprung ribs. The body underline should be tightly muscled with a well-defined
tuck-up. The croup should be broad and very slightly sloping. The tail should be set
high and smoothly into the croup, but not quite level with the back, a continuation of
the spine. The tail should be broad at the base, tapering uniformly down to the hock
joint. At rest, the tail should fall straight. When excited or running, it may curve
slightly, but never above the level of the back. A ring or hooked tail is a serious fault.
A docked tail is a disqualification.
Forequarters: The forequarters, viewed from the side, shall be strong and muscular.
The shoulder blade must be strong and sloping, forming, as near as possible, a right
angle in its articulation with the upper arm. A line from the upper tip of the shoulder
to the back of the elbow joint should be perpendicular. The ligaments and muscles
holding the shoulder blade to the rib cage must be well developed, firm and securely
attached to prevent loose shoulders. The shoulder blade and the upper arm should be the
same length. The elbow should be one-half the distance from the withers to the ground.
The strong pasterns should slope slightly. The feet should be round and compact with
well-arched toes, neither toeing in, toeing out, nor rolling to the inside or outside. The
nails should be short, strong and as dark as possible, except that they may be lighter
in harlequins. Dewclaws may or may not be removed.
Hindquarters: The hindquarters shall be strong, broad, muscular and well angulated,
with well let down hocks. Seen from the rear, the hock joints appear to be perfectly
straight, turned neither toward the inside nor toward the outside. The rear feet should
be round and compact, with well-arched toes, neither toeing in nor out. The nails
should be short, strong and as dark as possible, except they may be lighter in
harlequins. Wolf claws are a serious fault.
Coat: The coat shall be short, thick and clean with a smooth glossy appearance. Color,
Markings and Patterns
Blue: The color shall be a pure steel blue. White markings at the chest and toes are not
desirable, but acceptable.
Black: The color shall be a glossy black. White markings at the chest and toes are not
desirable, but acceptable.
Gait: The gait denotes strength and power with long, easy strides resulting in no
tossing, rolling or bouncing of the topline or body. The backline shall appear level and
parallel to the ground. The long reach should strike the ground below the nose while the
head is carried forward. The powerful rear drive should be balanced to the reach. As
speed increases, there is a natural tendency for the legs to converge toward the
centerline of balance beneath the body. There should be no twisting in or out at the
elbow or hock joints.
Temperament: The Great Dane is spirited, courageous, always friendly and
dependable, and never timid or aggressive.
European Standard
The noble general appearance of the Great Dane combines a tall, strong, well made
body with pride, strength and elegance. Through substance paired with nobility,
balance, well proportioned outline as well as a specially expressive head, the Great Dane
strikes the onlooker as a noble statue. He is the Apollo amongst all dog breeds.
Important Proportions: The build is nearly square, this applies in particular to males.
The length of back (point of sternum to pelvic tuber) should not exceed height at
withers in dogs by 5%, in females by 10%.
Height at withers: Males at least 80 cm. Females at least 72 cm.
Behavior / Temperament: Friendly, kind and devoted to his owners, specially to
children; reserved towards strangers. A self-assured, unafraid, easily guided and
docile companion and family dog is required. He must have a high resistance to any
provocation and must not be aggressive.
Head: In harmony with the general appearance. Long, narrow, striking, full of
expression, finely chiseled, especially under the eyes. Superciliary ridges well
developed but not protruding. The distance from the tip of the nose to the clearly
defined stop and from the stop to the only lightly defined occipital bond, should be as
equal as possible. The upper line of the foreface and skull should run parallel. The
head must appear narrow when seen from the front, but with the bridge of the nose as
broad as possible. Muscles in cheeks only lightly defined and in no way protruding.
Nose: Well developed, more broad than round with large nostrils. Must be black with
the exception of harlequin (white with black patches) colored Great Danes. In these a
black nose is desirable but a butterfly nose (partly regimented) or flesh colored nose is
tolerated.
Muzzle: Deep and as rectangular as possible. Well defined corners of lips. Dark
pigmented lips. In harlequins not totally pigmented or flesh colored lips are tolerated.
Jaws/Bite/Teeth: Well developed broad jaws. Strong, healthy and complete scissor bite
(42 teeth according to usual tooth formation).
Eyes: Medium size, round, as dark as possible with lively intelligent expression. In
blue Great Danes slightly lighter eyes are permissible. In harlequins light eyes or two
differently colored eyes can be tolerated. Lids should be close fitting.
Ears: Set on high, drooping by nature, medium size. Front rims lying close to the
cheeks.
Neck: Long, clean, muscular. Well defined set on, tapering slightly towards the head
with arched neckline. Carried upright but inclined forward on a slight slant.
Body
Withers: The highest point of the strong body, formed by the highest point of the
shoulder-blades which extends beyond the spinal processes..
Back: Short and taut. Falling away imperceptibly to the rear..
Loins: Slightly arched, broad, well muscled..
Croup: Broad, well muscled. Falling away very slightly from the sacrum to the tail
set-on and merging imperceptibly with the latter.
Tail: Reaching to the hocks. Set on high and broad, tapering evenly towards the tip. In
repose hanging down with natural curve. When excited or moving, can be carried
slightly saber-fashion but not markedly above the back line. Coarse hair underneath
the tail not desirable.
Brisket: Reaching to the elbows. Well sprung ribs reaching far back. Chest of good
width with well defined forechest.
Lower line: Belly well tucked up towards rear, forming a gently curved line with the
underside of the brisket.
Forequarters
Shoulders: Strongly muscled. The long slanting shoulder-blade forms an angle of
approximately 100 to 110 degrees with the upper arm.
Upper Arm: Strong and muscular, close fitting, should be slightly longer than
shoulder-blade.
Elbows: Turned neither out nor in.
Lower Arm: Strong, muscular. Seen from front and side, completely straight
Pastern joint: Strong, firm, only slightly distinguishable from the structure of the
lower arm.
Pasterns: Strong. Straight when seen from front. Seen from side, slanted very
slightly towards the front.
Front Feet: Round, well arched and tightly closed (cat food). Nails short, strong, as
dark as possible.
Hindquarters: The whole skeleton is covered by strong muscles which make the croup,
hips and upper thighs appear broad and rounded. The strong well angulated hind
legs, seen from behind, are parallel to the front legs.
Upper Thigh: Long, broad, muscular.
Stifles: Strong, standing almost vertically under the hip joint.
Lower Thigh: Long, approximately same length as upper thigh. Well muscled.
Hock Joints: Strong, sturdy, turning neither in nor out.
Hocks: Short, strong, almost perpendicular to the ground.
Hind Feet: Rounded, well arched and tight (cat foot). Nails short, strong, as dark as
possible.
Movement: Harmonious, lithe, covering the ground and slightly springy. The legs
seen from either front or back must be parallel in movement
Skin: Tight fitting. In solid colors well pigmented. In harlequins the distribution of
pigment is mostly in accordance with markings.
Coat: Texture of coat: Very short and dense, smooth and shiny looking.
Colors: The Great Dane is bred in three separate varieties: Fawn and brindle /
harlequin and black / and blue.
Black: Jet black, white markings permitted. Included here are also “Mantel tiger” in
which the black covers the body like a blanket but muzzle, throat, chest, belly, legs
and tip of tail may be white.
Blue: Clear steel blue, white markings on chest and feet permissible.
History of the Dane
The Great Dane is frequently referred to as the “Apollo of Dogs”. It is claimed that
drawings of a Great Dane-like dog can be found on Egyptian monuments dating
back several thousand years BC. There is also an engraving from the late 17th
Century which depicts Great Dane ancestors participating in a boar hunt. Thus the
breeds original name… the Boar Hound. This explains the Danes ears. Natural ears
are long and hound-like; they were originally cropped to prevent injury during boar
hunts where both the boar and the other Danes in the hunting party could injure each
others ears. Large blood vessels in the ear once damaged can cause fatal blood loss.
This is very much true today, but since Great Danes no longer are hunters, the
incident of injury is less.
The original crop was very short, ugly and triangular. Today’s crop is for aesthetic
reasons and is longer, more graceful and balanced to the head size. Leaving Great
Dane ears uncropped is also for aesthetic reasons. It is a personal preference. There is no
true benefit for or against cropping ears. Cropping Dane’s ears is prohibited in many
European countries. Here in America, it is acceptable both ways.
The name “Great Dane” can be misleading. While this majestic breed is great, they
certainly doesn’t come from Denmark. This breed originated in Germany and has had
many names including Hatzrude, Saufanger, and Metzgerhund. The official name
Deutshe Dogge was formally adopted in the 19thcentury making this the national dog
of Germany. The English translation of Deutsche Dogge is German Dog. How this
became Great Dane is somewhat confusing and no one has come up with a definitive
explanation.
The first Great Dane Club was organized in 1886 in Chicago. The Great Dane Club of
America was only the fourth breed club to become a part of the American Kennel Club
and when admitted to membership, was known as the Great German Mastiff Club.
Photographs from 1840 show dogs with small coarse heads and unimpressive necks
and bodies. Some of these dogs have little body mass and weak heads. All of the
dogs possessed ears that were cut extremely short. Today’s Great Dane is the product
of breeding not for hunting as Bore Hounds were originally useful, but for length of
leg, bolder head, and elongated body. Today’s Great Dane is a hunter no longer.
Breeding programs have transformed the Great Dane into a dandy of sorts. Therefore,
the vintage idea of Great Dane living outside and running large acreage, hunting for
their supper today, are downright silly and no longer true. With all this change came
shorter coats with very little fat under the skin, not suitable for extreme temperatures
hot or cold, longer legs and larger bodies though impressive to look at can lead to bone
and joint problems if a Great Dane were to be as active as their ancestors.
Temperaments have also changed. The fierce fighter and group hunter of yesterday,
has given way to a low-key, relaxed companion. Great Dane’s make surprisingly
wonderful apartment dogs for their low activity level, and resistance to noise stimuli.
They bark when they have to and they don’t feel they have to very often. Today’s
Dane is as unrecognizable as a hunter as the Great Dane of the past would have won
beauty contests.
FAQ’s
First, start out with a good attitude & lots of patience. Puppyhood only happens once
so enjoy it.
They’ll never be this little again!
Puppy proof your house. Puppies are just like children and get into everything, they
need constant supervision!! Some of what they get into could be hazardous to their
health or your belongings.
Schedule a new puppy exam with your vet.
Sign up for an age appropriate obedience class; make sure it’s after your puppy’s last
puppy shot.
Large breed puppy food, some soft puppy food couldn’t hurt. The soft food may help;
chances are your puppy isn’t going to have much of an appetite during the first few
days of his/her time away from Mom & siblings. We feed Nutri-Source Lamb and
Rice All Life Stages formula and Nutri-Source Chicken and Rice.
Water & food dish as well as some sort of elevated stand for their dishes is a great idea
due to the chance of bloat. Better to be safe than sorry. Plant stands come in a
variety of heights and are available in the garden area of stores such as Target, Fred
Meyer, Wal-Mart etc… They are affordable and decorative only about $5.00 a piece.
Crate (the wire/metal crates are nice because they come with a divider so you can
adjust the size of the crate as your puppy grows. That way you only have to purchase
one crate instead of 2-3 crates to accommodate for the growth of your Dane. I also
suggest that you buy a cover for their crate that way it has more of a “den” feel for the
dog.
Possibly a “baby gate” to block door ways and/or a stair case.
Treats: something soft & small while they are losing their baby teeth.
Leash/collar w/ ID tag. As your puppy gets larger a “gentle leader” is a great tool
when you are on walks or in public. You can find them at pet stores in the leash/collar
isle.
Our puppies are accustomed to going potty in a designated potty area, dirt area off of
the grass. You can also just take your puppy outside when you see that he/she is
getting in the pool and say “Let’s go potty” or whatever term you are going to use with
your puppy. As the puppy grows just move the
pool closer to the door you will be taking him/her out to relive him/herself.
Something to pick up puppy potty with when you are out on a walk… you can
purchase plastic poo bags at pet stores or you can just use your plastic grocery
shopping bags. Bags work well when you’re out-n-about with your dog, they fit
nicely in your glove box or pocket. A long handled scoop is nice to have at home.
Pets stain/odor remover and lots of paper towels or old rags you can re-use to clean up
accidents (chances are you’re gonna need it at least a few times)
Dog toys: squeaky ones are great as well as plush toys. They will be losing their
baby teeth and most definitely will need something to chew on. Be prepared to have to
replace toys that will probably get chewed up. Always watch or be around when your
puppy is chewing or playing with toys. Squeakers and stuffing can be pulled out and
swallowed very easily and can cause un-needed pain and suffering. If the toy has
‘seen better days’ it is probably time to throw it away and get a new one and not risk
the chance of inhaling parts of it.
Dog bed, but I suggest old or inexpensive blankets that can be washed and reused in
case of accidents or chewing. Then when the puppy is passed all that a dog bed or crib
mattress works great. I like the crib mattress because I can buy the vinyl, zippered
cover for them so accidents don’t soak through and they are easier to keep clean, less
dust and odor in your home. Changing a crib sheet is a lot easier and convenient than
taking a large dog bed to the laundry mat and over time is more cost effective. I keep
about 5 crib sheets on hand.
Grooming supplies: nail clippers, styptic powder/pencil (in case you clip the pup’s
nails to short). It’s a god idea to have your vet show you how to clip the puppy’s nails
(if you’ve never done it before), a brush, and puppy shampoo (tear free, hypoallergenic)
A potty training plan….Puppies do not have full control of their bladders until about 8
months of age. I suggest feeding on a schedule at first, it makes potty training
easier. When they are older I allow for free choice feeding so they can eat whenever
they choose to.
A good puppy/training book on hand as well as a Great Dane book.
Last but not least… Patience, Patience, Patience!!! A sense of humor doesn’t hurt
either.
If you have any questions now or in the future I am always available & happy to
answer your questions.
Cost of Owning A Dane
You can improvise on some things and not spend as much on certain items, but it this
list gives you a good, general idea. Remember everything is at a much larger scale
than a small dog. Of course you don’t have to go run out and buy everything on the
list. It just gives you an idea of how much things add up for owning a big dog. Please
do your homework. Prices are based on a monthly to a yearly basis and will vary
depending on where items are purchased. This is just a general guideline to give you
an idea of the costs of raising and caring for a Dane, so that ‘unexpected’ costs will
not shock or surprise you in the future.
How much will a Great Dane Puppy Cost?
Show Potential Puppy…$1800 to $3000 some are even $10,000.
Companion Pup….. $500 to $1,800.
Rescue - usually adult……$250-500.
Shipping: $350-650.00 one way. Pets must have a least one parvo vaccine, be eight
weeks of age, and must have a Health Certificate and exam before Flying. Check your
airlines regulations. Not all airlines ship pets.
Vet Costs: Pet Insurance……..$30+ a month. It will save you some money on
Vaccinations, exams,
x-rays & emergencies.
Heartworm pills …..$90
Puppy checkups and vaccines ….$100
Routine vet care - average ..$250
Advantage Flea and Tick control……
Spay/neuter …………….$200+
Cropping (if not paid by breeder)…………..$350 and up
Bloat Surgery……..$1200+
Puppy Training:
Baby Gate………… $40
Collars, at least 2 will cost…. $25
Six foot leash ……$15
Crate (Size 700#) …$134
Big dog wire crate 37 wide x 54 deep x 45 high…….$239.95
Crate Pad (for 700#)……. $50
ID tag……………$ 6
Dog license (pet=15 intact=40)….$15
Nature’s Miracle, stain remover……..$17.95 gallon
Obedience Classes ……..$100
Handling Classes $5 for each class (daily cost)
Pooper scooper……… $18
Anti-chew spray -Bitter Apple…….$4.99
Rolled up newspaper……..50 cents (Smack yourself with it when your puppy piddles
on the floor,
because... You were NOT watching!)
Puppy Feeding Supplies:
Dog Bowls (2)……. $30
Raised double bowl holder……$20 or use plant stands $9+
Premium adult dog food ($2.00-$4.00 per day)
Grooming Supplies: Nail Grinder, Dremmel …$60
Nail clippers….. $10.00 for large dog
Shampoos and bathing supplies …….$40
Brushes……… $5-10
Tooth Brush………….. 2.95
Tooth Paste………..3.95
Extras Toys (4 toys) ………$40+++
Fencing………… $500-1000++
Books about great Danes…..$20 each
Boarding 2 weeks minimum………….$280 (usually around $10-$12 a day.)
Ear Wrapping Supplies:
Tape by Johnson and Johnson. 1- 1 1/2inch……………1.89
Sharp and Bandage scissors
Skin Bond- Helps everything stick to the ear better.
Medi-Sol - Adhesive Remover. Goo Gone works as well. Helps to remove tape and Skin
Bond
easier. 4 OZ. $11.95
Alcohol-To clean pups ears inside and out.
Cotton Balls and Q-tips- Use with Alcohol to clean ears.
Astringent Ear powder-If your puppy’s ears are wet inside. Helps reduce ear odor. (This
is good
for uncropped ears as well).
Surgery performed by a vet: $400-$1200
Miscellaneous:
Treats…………$25-$75
Bedding for Dane size…..$30-90
You will need more than 4 toys ….$200
Chewed up reading glasses ….$200
SUV to transport Danes ………..$25,000+ (or other large vehicle)
New landscaping………..$2,500+++
New Furniture after the old ones get chewed up
Remote controls & Game controllers.
Eye glasses.
Leather designer shoes & purses.
New Carpet
Carpenter work, replacing chewed up decks and wood around the house.
Paint.
As you will soon find out when you invite a Dane to become a loving
part of your family, the costs don’t ever compare to the love, loyalty,
companionship and laughs that a Dane will bring to your life!!!!
Silver Sage Danes pre- screens all prospective buyers and do our best to ensure they are
prepared for all that is involved in owning and raising one of these remarkable
animals. Great Danes are a truly unique and remarkable breed & with that comes
great responsibility. But the rewards are also great & it’s truly a privilege to share one’
s life with one of these magnificent animals.
Each puppy leaves here well socialized, spoiled, and loved a tremendous amount! Our
puppies are handled and loved on extensively from day one. I take great care to ensure
that they are exposed to just about everything that they will come in contact with in
their new homes.
If you think that one of our puppy(s) could potentially be the perfect good fit for you
and your family, please contact us via e-mail or call us at (208)431-6203 and/or fill
out our puppy application. I am more than happy to provide you with references and
additional information from any of our past puppy owners. Once I have spoken with
you, had a chance to review your application & call your references; I will let you know
whether or not you and your family have been selected for one of our puppies. I do my
best to select only the very best homes and families for my furry, four-legged kids.
I take the job of placing my puppies in their new homes EXTREMELY seriously! They
don’t just go to the first person with money! I plan to keep in touch with each and
everyone one of our puppies new families. It is extremely important to me to know how
our Danes are doing, physically and emotionally. I put my whole heart, care, and love
into caring and raising them before they leave on to their new adventures. Being able
to know how they are growing and developing, helps us to improve on our breeding
program and ensure that we are producing the ‘perfect’ Dane, physically and
emotionally.
I cannot stress enough about the importance in researching and learning as much as
you can on this breed before bringing one into your life. There are a lot of wonderful
resources on the internet, the library, the book store as well as talking to other Dane
owners and breeders. I also can email you some wonderful information I have compiled
over the years, that I send out to all my puppies new owners. I wonderful information I
have compiled over the years, that I send out to all my puppies new owners. I expect and
want the new owners to feel confident and ready to raise, care, love, and spoil their new
Dane puppy.
Puppy Names
While the puppies are in our care we give them their names, for our record purposes
only. We love our babies and become very attached to them. You are free to keep the
name we have given or are welcome to change it.
Puppy Prices
Blue: (pet/lmtd. reg.) $1800-$2500, co-ownership (show/full reg.) $3000-$4000
Black: (pet/lmtd. reg.) $1500-$2200, co-ownership (show/full reg.) $2500-$3500
I breed and raise Dane puppies, because I love and have a deep passion for this breed. I
do not make a living or money off them. It takes a lot of money and time to care for a
litter of puppies before and after their arrival. The expenses begin way before both
parents are ready to breed. Both parents are tested: cardiac, thyroid panel, OFA
certified elbows and hips, Bruccelosis tested and current on vaccination. The feed
costs to feed a pregnant, nursing Dane and growing puppies is not cheap by any
means, I only feed the highest quality of food and treats. I hire a pet dietician to
assist in our feeding program, ensuring that each of our Danes is getting the proper
nutrition that is appropriate for them. They are given all the appropriate worming and
vaccinations before leaving for their new homes. I want their immune systems as
strong as possible for the upcoming stress of going to a new environment. At 8 weeks
they go in for their health examination and micro-chipping. If for any reason from
the time they’re born to the time they leave they require vet care they are taken in.
Then there is the costs of advertising and keep my website up to date. Your phone bill
goes up, as well as your electric bill trying to keep everyone warm and cool. Their
bedding is changed on a daily basis, shavings cost money, cleaning supplies,
blankets, toys, and paper towels. Oh and who could forget someone’s got to feed the
puppies parents all years before a litter ever hits the ground. The puppies come with
toys, treats, leash, collar, some food and extensive informational packet. It costs
money to register a litter with AKC. There’s so many little expenses, many of which I
haven’t listed, especially all the countless hours of labor, truly making this a labor of
love! I don’t think people realize all the expenses, both big and small that are required
to raise and care for a superior quality litter of puppies. I came out $150.00 ahead
once…. I bought all my Danes new toys! So that’s the method to my madness…try not
to end up in the hole too deep!
Limited Registration
All pet/companion puppies are sold with limited registration; on a mandatory
spay/neuter contract. Proof of spay/neuter from your vet must be provided to me by
the time the puppy reaching 12 months old. If proof of spay/neuter is not received
within the allotted time frame, the 4 year health guarantee will be null and void and
you will not receive your puppies AKC registration papers.
Full Registration
Experienced Show Home: Show marked and show temperament puppies that will be
available to an experienced show home and will not require a co-ownership. We will
however require that the puppies registered name begin with our kennel name: Silver
Sage’s…
Inexperienced Show Home: Show marked puppies may be available to an inexperienced
show home. However I will require a co-ownership. Upon the completion of a successful
AKC or International Championship title I will remove my name from the dog’s
registration and you will be the sole owner of the dog. If you are “approved” for one of
our puppies with the intention of showing we require that the puppies registered name
begin with our kennel name: Silver Sage’s…
Breeding Home: Breeding homes will be considered on a case by case basis. If you are
“approved” for a puppy we require that the sire or dam is pre-screened for health or
temperament problems; that the beginning of the puppies registered name start with
our kennel name: Silver Sage’s; also we are to be informed before any breeding takes
place of potential sire/dam that you are considering for breeding to. They have to be
pre-approved by me first and I must have information and background on the genetics
and breeder you are working with. *you must be an exceptional home as I have yet
only placed two of my puppies with full registration & that was on a co-own to a show
home*
Requirements
We require the following:
You must keep us informed of the puppy/dogs health (physical and mental) and
provide pictures/updates on a regular basis. I’d prefer that you do it willingly but I
know life gets busy. So if I’m curious I’ll call or email you for an update.
To be kept informed of the puppies current address, email and phone numbers for the
life of the puppy/dog.
You must provide your puppy with all routine/necessary medical care.
Your puppy/dog will be kept as an inside pet.
That you take your puppy to the vet within 72 hours of his/her arrival in your
possession, otherwise health guarantee will be null and void unless other arrangements
have been made. Your puppy, while in our care will have had a minimum of 3 vet
visits. If any other visits are required they will be taken in.
That your puppy/dog will be returned to us if at any point in the life of the puppy/dog
you are no longer able to care for him/her. I hope that, that never happens but I DO
NOT want my puppies/dogs to be placed in shelters or bounced around for the
remainder of their life.
Reward Program
We offer a reward program to our new puppy owners. When you have successfully
competed in agility, obedience competitions or have completed a CGC, Therapy Dog
training program or have successfully titled your dog in the AKC or International
conformation ring you will be eligible for up to a $100.00 refund from us for your
efforts. If it is your intention to do any of the following with your puppy let us know
when you first inquire and we can help you get started or gather information about
fulfilling these titles.
We also offer a referral reward program to our new puppy owners. If you recommend
family or friends to adopt a puppy from us and are approved and adopt a puppy from
us you will be eligible for up to a $100.00 refund for each puppy adopted from us by a
referral.
Deposits
We require a nonrefundable fee of $500.00-$800.00 to hold your puppy. The money
you put down to hold your puppy is applied towards the purchase of the puppy you
choose. However if you are unable, for ANY reason to buy your puppy your
$300.00-$500.00 will not be refunded so please be sure that you are ready for this
commitment! However if we change our mind about you the money will be refunded.
The deposit for puppies placed with limited registration is $500.00, puppies placed
with full registration is $800.00. Deposits/Payments must be made in the form of
cash, postal money orders, visa, or debit cards (3.9% additional fee). We no longer
acceptchecks. Paypal is also an option but you must also include an additional 3.9%
additional fee to cover the Paypal fees.
Puppies must be paid for in full by the time they reach 7 weeks old unless, other
arrangements have been made. Payment plans can be arranged, but puppy has to be
paid in full before delivery.
Delivery of puppies
I am open to delivering puppies to their new homes or meeting new puppy parents
within a reasonable distance. An additional fuel charge might be added, pending on
the distance I will have to travel to meet with you.
Shipping
I do prefer that all our puppies stay local but will not deny my puppies a fabulous
home because of distance. If I do ship I prefer it to be within the USA, but may
consider other areas. If you’re interested contact me and we’ll go from there. Many
people contact us about the safety and process of flying their new puppies to them. I
have flown many Danes out and also in, with no permanent, physical, or
psychological damage ever. It is a very safe, reliable and easy way to deliver puppies
that are way beyond the means of ground delivery for myself and the new owners. If
it was not safe or if I did not feel comfortable doing so, believe me I would never put
one of my ‘babies’ through it. I worry just as much about shipping them as do the new
owners. They are placed in an airline regulation crate, large enough for the puppy to
stand, turn around, and sit comfortably. They are sent with food and water, if the
situation should arrive of a longer than normal lay over. They are placed in a special
cargo area, not with the luggage, that is heated/cooled, pending on the weather. They
also can be accessed and checked on while the flight is in the air if need be. They are
the very last thing loaded on the plane and the first thing taken off. They
occasionally are ‘messy’ when they arrive, but for the most part they just want to run
around for a minute and then snuggle up in your lap and take a good long nap. If
you are still worried or have concerns about this please feel free to contact us for
another possible delivery service or to have any questions answered.
All shipping expenses are the responsibility of the buyer & must be paid in full by the
time the puppy is 8 weeks old. An estimate figure for shipping, crate, health
certificate ranges from is about $375.00 - $ 650.00.00, depending on location and
size of the puppy (within the USA).
Puppy Care Package
Your puppy will leave here in good health, happy & pre-spoiled with his/her age
appropriate
shot(s), wormed, micro- chipped, bathed and nails trimmed. Along with your puppy,
you will receive from us a packet with the following contents: leash, collar, several
toys, treats, food sample, an extensive informational CD (I highly recommend you
read over it contents several times), vaccination history and future dates for
vaccinations needed and pedigree.
Inherited and other health concerns in the Great Dane
The following health conditions have been identified in the Great Dane. Items so
marked * can be identified through testing and Silver Sage Danes test each breeding
Dane has performed and cleared before being considered for breeding. Screening tests
are not currently available for the other conditions listed. Conditions thought to
involve significant & direct inheritance are noted. For those purchasing a pet or
intending to breed: it is important to know the health status before breeding any dog
or bitch. Clinically affected dogs, i.e., those dogs exhibiting symptoms for conditions
considered serious and heritable should generally NOT be bred and health screenings
(where available) are certainly recommend. Please note that the text below is intended
as an aid to those seeking health information on the breed, and should not be used to
form a diagnosis replacing regular veterinary care by a qualified veterinarian.
DCM: CARDIOMYOPATHY - is suspected to be an inherited disease in the Great Dane
and current (preliminary) research indicates that this disease may be sex-linked in
our breed. Research is ongoing. An echocardiogram of the heart will confirm the
disease but will not guarantee that the disease will not develop in the future. Regular
exams on breeding stock are recommended. There are some congenital heart defects
also occasionally found in the breed. For an in-depth article on the subject, see “Heart
Disease in the Great Dane.”
K9HD: HIP DYSPLASIA - is an inherited disease with multi-factorial expression.
Clinically the disease may be seen as simply poor rear end conformation or lessened
athleticism to such malformation of the hip joint that the dog becomes crippled. It is
recommended that breeding stock be X-rayed as normal. OFA and Penn HIP both offer
certification programs.
HYPOTHYROIDISM - in dogs is generally the result of a heritable disorder of the
immune system. This condition results when the thyroid gland is not producing
enough hormones to adequately maintain the dog’s metabolism. Happily, it is easily
treated with thyroid replacement pills. Thyroid testing (T4, TSH and auto
antibodies) on breeding stock should be performed on a routine basis. Finding auto
antibodies to thyroglobulin is normally an indication that the dog has autoimmune
thyroiditis. Low thyroid dogs, manifested by a high TSH and a low T4, should be
treated and monitored on a regular basis. Dogs with confirmed thyroid abnormalities
should not be bred.
CATARACTS - although not common, cataracts have been described in the Great Dane
and can be blinding. Eyelid abnormalities (e.g. entropion) are also not unheard of in
the breed. For breeding stock a CERF exam can insure that the eyes are normal in all
aspects.
GDV:BLOAT - is the number one killer of Great Danes & Great Danes are the #1 breed
at risk for bloat. For reasons not fully understood, in certain deep-chested breeds in
particular, the stomach distends, then has a tendency to rotate, which cuts off the
blood supply to various parts of the body, as well as effectively shutting down
digestion. This condition is extremely painful as well as a true emergency that is
rapidly life-threatening. A dog with a bloated, twisted stomach (technically called
“Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus”) will die in great pain in a matter of hours unless
drastic steps are taken: surgery is normally necessary. The reasons for GDV are
currently not understood, however most would agree that multiple small meals per day
and preventing vigorous exercise around mealtimes can help reduce the chances of
bloat. Many breeders and owners of Great Danes consider a surgery called a
prophylactic gastropexy (”preventative tack”) which can help prevent some of the more
serious aspects of GDV. Discuss this with your veterinarian and your Dane’s breeder.
CANCER: Danes can suffer from a variety of cancers as do many other breeds of dogs
as well as many mixed breed dogs. Bone cancer (osteosarcoma) and lymphoma appear
to be the two forms of cancer most commonly seen in the Great Dane, and along with
heart disease and bloat (GDV), cancer is a leading cause of death in Great Danes.
Research into both types of cancer is ongoing and treatment options are improving
every day.
CVI: Wobblers - is a result of pressure on the spinal cord in the neck region and results
in a “drunken” gait & increasing instability. It is thought to result from a
combination of nutritional effects and inherited traits and is considered a form of
DOD (Developmental Osteodystrophy) along with such as OCD. Great Danes are
considered at risk for Wobblers. CVI stands for Cervical Vertebral Instability.
HOD and Pano - these are painful conditions of the bones that occur during the rapid
growth phase of puppy hood causing lameness and general malaise. By far HOD is the
more serious one and can be deadly. Pano is usually self-limiting and may not need
treatment. HOD stands for Hypertrophic Osteodystrophy. Pano is short for Panosteitis.
Height & Weight Data for Danes
Please keep in mind when reading the chart below that all puppies follow their own
guide & grow at their own rate. This is just a general guide. Some Danes may
actually be smaller/weigh less than this chart indicates while others may weigh more.
Dane puppies need to stay slim as they are more prone to joint & bone problems than
the smaller breed dogs.
Less is better when it comes to the first year. All Danes fed adequately will eventually
reach their genetic height & weight. Don’t rush to own the biggest Dane baby on the
block. A Dane won’t reach their mature size until about 2-3 years old. It is vital to
have a slow, steady growth process.
A good way to gauge your individual puppy’s growth is that they should be “ribby”
and slightly “flanky” (a little on the lean side, with the ribs & hip bones not evident).
You should be able to feel the ribs/hip bones but not see them.
Birth Weight 1-2 lbs
Week 1 2-3 lbs
Week 2 3-5 lbs
Week 3 4-7 lbs
Week 4 5-8 lbs
Week 6 12-20 lbs
Month 2 18-27 lbs 13-17 in
Month 3 30-45 lbs 17-22 in
Month 4 50-65 lbs 21-25 in
Month 5 65-85 lbs 25-30 in
Month 6 70-100 lbs 27-33 in
Month 7 75-110 lbs 27-33 in
Month 8 80-115 lbs 27-34 in
Month 9 85-120 lbs 28-34 in
1 year 90-135 lbs 28-36 in
Full GrownTypical Male 140-170 lbs 33-36 in
Full GrownTypical Female 110-140 lbs 30-33 in
Great Dane Breed Standard
The Great Dane combines, in its regal appearance, dignity, strength and elegance with
great size and a powerful, well-formed, smoothly muscled body. It is one of the giant
working breeds, but is unique in that its general conformation must be so well
balanced that it never appears clumsy, and shall move with a long reach and powerful
drive. It is always a unit-the Apollo of dogs. A Great Dane must be spirited,
courageous, never timid; always friendly and dependable. This physical and mental
combination is the characteristic which gives the Great Dane the majesty possessed by
no other breed. It is particularly true of this breed that there is an impression of great
masculinity in dogs, as compared to an impression of femininity in bitches. Lack of
true Dane breed type, as defined in this standard, is a serious fault. Size, Proportion,
Substance.
The male should appear more massive throughout than the bitch, with larger frame and
heavier bone. In the ratio between length and height, the Great Dane should be square.
In bitches, a somewhat longer body is permissible, providing she is well proportioned to
her height. Coarseness or lack of substance are equally undesirable. The male shall not
be less than 30 inches at the shoulders, but it is preferable that he be 32 inches or more,
providing he is well proportioned to his height. The female shall not be less than 28
inches at the shoulders, but it is preferable that she be 30 inches or more, providing she
is well proportioned to her height. Danes under minimum height must be disqualified.
Head: The head shall be rectangular, long, distinguished, expressive, finely chiseled,
especially below the eyes. Seen from the side, the Dane’s forehead must be sharply set
off from the bridge of the nose, (a strongly pronounced stop). The plane of the skull
and the plane of the muzzle must be straight and parallel to one another. The skull
plane under and to the inner point of the eye must slope without any bony
protuberance in a smooth line to a full square jaw with a deep muzzle (fluttering lips
are undesirable). The masculinity of the male is very pronounced in structural
appearance of the head. The bitch’s head is more delicately formed. Seen from the top,
the skull should have parallel sides and the bridge of the nose should be as broad as
possible. The cheek muscles should not be prominent. The length from the tip of the
nose to the center of the stop should be equal to the length from the center of the stop to
the rear of the slightly developed occipital. The head should be angular from all sides
and should have flat planes with dimensions in proportion to the size of the Dane.
Whiskers may be trimmed or left natural.
Eyes: Shall be medium size, deep set, and dark, with a lively intelligent expression.
The eyelids are almond-shaped and relatively tight, with well developed brows. Haws
and mongolian eyes are serious faults. In harlequins, the eyes should be dark; light
colored eyes, eyes of different colors and walleyes are permitted but not desirable.
Ears: Shall be high set, medium in size and of moderate thickness, folded forward
close to the cheek. The top line of the folded ear should be level with the skull. If
cropped, the ear length is in proportion to the size of the head and the ears are carried
uniformly erect.
Nose: Shall be black, except in the blue Dane, where it is a dark blue-black. A black
spotted nose is permitted on the harlequin; a pink colored nose is not desirable. A split
nose is a disqualification.
Teeth: Shall be strong, well developed, clean and with full dentition. The incisors of
the lower jaw touch very lightly the bottoms of the inner surface of the upper incisors
(scissors bite). An undershot jaw is a very serious fault. Overshot or wry bites are
serious faults. Even bites, misaligned or crowded incisors are minor faults.
Neck, Topline, Body: The neck shall be firm, high set, well arched, long and muscular.
From the nape, it should gradually broaden and flow smoothly into the withers. The
neck underline should be clean. Withers shall slope smoothly into a short level back
with a broad loin. The chest shall be broad, deep and well muscled. The forechest should
be well developed without a pronounced sternum. The brisket extends to the elbow, with
well sprung ribs. The body underline should be tightly muscled with a well-defined
tuck-up. The croup should be broad and very slightly sloping. The tail should be set
high and smoothly into the croup, but not quite level with the back, a continuation of
the spine. The tail should be broad at the base, tapering uniformly down to the hock
joint. At rest, the tail should fall straight. When excited or running, it may curve
slightly, but never above the level of the back. A ring or hooked tail is a serious fault.
A docked tail is a disqualification.
Forequarters: The forequarters, viewed from the side, shall be strong and muscular.
The shoulder blade must be strong and sloping, forming, as near as possible, a right
angle in its articulation with the upper arm. A line from the upper tip of the shoulder
to the back of the elbow joint should be perpendicular. The ligaments and muscles
holding the shoulder blade to the rib cage must be well developed, firm and securely
attached to prevent loose shoulders. The shoulder blade and the upper arm should be the
same length. The elbow should be one-half the distance from the withers to the ground.
The strong pasterns should slope slightly. The feet should be round and compact with
well-arched toes, neither toeing in, toeing out, nor rolling to the inside or outside. The
nails should be short, strong and as dark as possible, except that they may be lighter
in harlequins. Dewclaws may or may not be removed.
Hindquarters: The hindquarters shall be strong, broad, muscular and well angulated,
with well let down hocks. Seen from the rear, the hock joints appear to be perfectly
straight, turned neither toward the inside nor toward the outside. The rear feet should
be round and compact, with well-arched toes, neither toeing in nor out. The nails
should be short, strong and as dark as possible, except they may be lighter in
harlequins. Wolf claws are a serious fault.
Coat: The coat shall be short, thick and clean with a smooth glossy appearance. Color,
Markings and Patterns
Blue: The color shall be a pure steel blue. White markings at the chest and toes are not
desirable, but acceptable.
Black: The color shall be a glossy black. White markings at the chest and toes are not
desirable, but acceptable.
Gait: The gait denotes strength and power with long, easy strides resulting in no
tossing, rolling or bouncing of the topline or body. The backline shall appear level and
parallel to the ground. The long reach should strike the ground below the nose while the
head is carried forward. The powerful rear drive should be balanced to the reach. As
speed increases, there is a natural tendency for the legs to converge toward the
centerline of balance beneath the body. There should be no twisting in or out at the
elbow or hock joints.
Temperament: The Great Dane is spirited, courageous, always friendly and
dependable, and never timid or aggressive.
European Standard
The noble general appearance of the Great Dane combines a tall, strong, well made
body with pride, strength and elegance. Through substance paired with nobility,
balance, well proportioned outline as well as a specially expressive head, the Great Dane
strikes the onlooker as a noble statue. He is the Apollo amongst all dog breeds.
Important Proportions: The build is nearly square, this applies in particular to males.
The length of back (point of sternum to pelvic tuber) should not exceed height at
withers in dogs by 5%, in females by 10%.
Height at withers: Males at least 80 cm. Females at least 72 cm.
Behavior / Temperament: Friendly, kind and devoted to his owners, specially to
children; reserved towards strangers. A self-assured, unafraid, easily guided and
docile companion and family dog is required. He must have a high resistance to any
provocation and must not be aggressive.
Head: In harmony with the general appearance. Long, narrow, striking, full of
expression, finely chiseled, especially under the eyes. Superciliary ridges well
developed but not protruding. The distance from the tip of the nose to the clearly
defined stop and from the stop to the only lightly defined occipital bond, should be as
equal as possible. The upper line of the foreface and skull should run parallel. The
head must appear narrow when seen from the front, but with the bridge of the nose as
broad as possible. Muscles in cheeks only lightly defined and in no way protruding.
Nose: Well developed, more broad than round with large nostrils. Must be black with
the exception of harlequin (white with black patches) colored Great Danes. In these a
black nose is desirable but a butterfly nose (partly regimented) or flesh colored nose is
tolerated.
Muzzle: Deep and as rectangular as possible. Well defined corners of lips. Dark
pigmented lips. In harlequins not totally pigmented or flesh colored lips are tolerated.
Jaws/Bite/Teeth: Well developed broad jaws. Strong, healthy and complete scissor bite
(42 teeth according to usual tooth formation).
Eyes: Medium size, round, as dark as possible with lively intelligent expression. In
blue Great Danes slightly lighter eyes are permissible. In harlequins light eyes or two
differently colored eyes can be tolerated. Lids should be close fitting.
Ears: Set on high, drooping by nature, medium size. Front rims lying close to the
cheeks.
Neck: Long, clean, muscular. Well defined set on, tapering slightly towards the head
with arched neckline. Carried upright but inclined forward on a slight slant.
Body
Withers: The highest point of the strong body, formed by the highest point of the
shoulder-blades which extends beyond the spinal processes..
Back: Short and taut. Falling away imperceptibly to the rear..
Loins: Slightly arched, broad, well muscled..
Croup: Broad, well muscled. Falling away very slightly from the sacrum to the tail
set-on and merging imperceptibly with the latter.
Tail: Reaching to the hocks. Set on high and broad, tapering evenly towards the tip. In
repose hanging down with natural curve. When excited or moving, can be carried
slightly saber-fashion but not markedly above the back line. Coarse hair underneath
the tail not desirable.
Brisket: Reaching to the elbows. Well sprung ribs reaching far back. Chest of good
width with well defined forechest.
Lower line: Belly well tucked up towards rear, forming a gently curved line with the
underside of the brisket.
Forequarters
Shoulders: Strongly muscled. The long slanting shoulder-blade forms an angle of
approximately 100 to 110 degrees with the upper arm.
Upper Arm: Strong and muscular, close fitting, should be slightly longer than
shoulder-blade.
Elbows: Turned neither out nor in.
Lower Arm: Strong, muscular. Seen from front and side, completely straight
Pastern joint: Strong, firm, only slightly distinguishable from the structure of the
lower arm.
Pasterns: Strong. Straight when seen from front. Seen from side, slanted very
slightly towards the front.
Front Feet: Round, well arched and tightly closed (cat food). Nails short, strong, as
dark as possible.
Hindquarters: The whole skeleton is covered by strong muscles which make the croup,
hips and upper thighs appear broad and rounded. The strong well angulated hind
legs, seen from behind, are parallel to the front legs.
Upper Thigh: Long, broad, muscular.
Stifles: Strong, standing almost vertically under the hip joint.
Lower Thigh: Long, approximately same length as upper thigh. Well muscled.
Hock Joints: Strong, sturdy, turning neither in nor out.
Hocks: Short, strong, almost perpendicular to the ground.
Hind Feet: Rounded, well arched and tight (cat foot). Nails short, strong, as dark as
possible.
Movement: Harmonious, lithe, covering the ground and slightly springy. The legs
seen from either front or back must be parallel in movement
Skin: Tight fitting. In solid colors well pigmented. In harlequins the distribution of
pigment is mostly in accordance with markings.
Coat: Texture of coat: Very short and dense, smooth and shiny looking.
Colors: The Great Dane is bred in three separate varieties: Fawn and brindle /
harlequin and black / and blue.
Black: Jet black, white markings permitted. Included here are also “Mantel tiger” in
which the black covers the body like a blanket but muzzle, throat, chest, belly, legs
and tip of tail may be white.
Blue: Clear steel blue, white markings on chest and feet permissible.
History of the Dane
The Great Dane is frequently referred to as the “Apollo of Dogs”. It is claimed that
drawings of a Great Dane-like dog can be found on Egyptian monuments dating
back several thousand years BC. There is also an engraving from the late 17th
Century which depicts Great Dane ancestors participating in a boar hunt. Thus the
breeds original name… the Boar Hound. This explains the Danes ears. Natural ears
are long and hound-like; they were originally cropped to prevent injury during boar
hunts where both the boar and the other Danes in the hunting party could injure each
others ears. Large blood vessels in the ear once damaged can cause fatal blood loss.
This is very much true today, but since Great Danes no longer are hunters, the
incident of injury is less.
The original crop was very short, ugly and triangular. Today’s crop is for aesthetic
reasons and is longer, more graceful and balanced to the head size. Leaving Great
Dane ears uncropped is also for aesthetic reasons. It is a personal preference. There is no
true benefit for or against cropping ears. Cropping Dane’s ears is prohibited in many
European countries. Here in America, it is acceptable both ways.
The name “Great Dane” can be misleading. While this majestic breed is great, they
certainly doesn’t come from Denmark. This breed originated in Germany and has had
many names including Hatzrude, Saufanger, and Metzgerhund. The official name
Deutshe Dogge was formally adopted in the 19thcentury making this the national dog
of Germany. The English translation of Deutsche Dogge is German Dog. How this
became Great Dane is somewhat confusing and no one has come up with a definitive
explanation.
The first Great Dane Club was organized in 1886 in Chicago. The Great Dane Club of
America was only the fourth breed club to become a part of the American Kennel Club
and when admitted to membership, was known as the Great German Mastiff Club.
Photographs from 1840 show dogs with small coarse heads and unimpressive necks
and bodies. Some of these dogs have little body mass and weak heads. All of the
dogs possessed ears that were cut extremely short. Today’s Great Dane is the product
of breeding not for hunting as Bore Hounds were originally useful, but for length of
leg, bolder head, and elongated body. Today’s Great Dane is a hunter no longer.
Breeding programs have transformed the Great Dane into a dandy of sorts. Therefore,
the vintage idea of Great Dane living outside and running large acreage, hunting for
their supper today, are downright silly and no longer true. With all this change came
shorter coats with very little fat under the skin, not suitable for extreme temperatures
hot or cold, longer legs and larger bodies though impressive to look at can lead to bone
and joint problems if a Great Dane were to be as active as their ancestors.
Temperaments have also changed. The fierce fighter and group hunter of yesterday,
has given way to a low-key, relaxed companion. Great Dane’s make surprisingly
wonderful apartment dogs for their low activity level, and resistance to noise stimuli.
They bark when they have to and they don’t feel they have to very often. Today’s
Dane is as unrecognizable as a hunter as the Great Dane of the past would have won
beauty contests.
FAQ’s
First, start out with a good attitude & lots of patience. Puppyhood only happens once
so enjoy it.
They’ll never be this little again!
Puppy proof your house. Puppies are just like children and get into everything, they
need constant supervision!! Some of what they get into could be hazardous to their
health or your belongings.
Schedule a new puppy exam with your vet.
Sign up for an age appropriate obedience class; make sure it’s after your puppy’s last
puppy shot.
Large breed puppy food, some soft puppy food couldn’t hurt. The soft food may help;
chances are your puppy isn’t going to have much of an appetite during the first few
days of his/her time away from Mom & siblings. We feed Nutri-Source Lamb and
Rice All Life Stages formula and Nutri-Source Chicken and Rice.
Water & food dish as well as some sort of elevated stand for their dishes is a great idea
due to the chance of bloat. Better to be safe than sorry. Plant stands come in a
variety of heights and are available in the garden area of stores such as Target, Fred
Meyer, Wal-Mart etc… They are affordable and decorative only about $5.00 a piece.
Crate (the wire/metal crates are nice because they come with a divider so you can
adjust the size of the crate as your puppy grows. That way you only have to purchase
one crate instead of 2-3 crates to accommodate for the growth of your Dane. I also
suggest that you buy a cover for their crate that way it has more of a “den” feel for the
dog.
Possibly a “baby gate” to block door ways and/or a stair case.
Treats: something soft & small while they are losing their baby teeth.
Leash/collar w/ ID tag. As your puppy gets larger a “gentle leader” is a great tool
when you are on walks or in public. You can find them at pet stores in the leash/collar
isle.
Our puppies are accustomed to going potty in a designated potty area, dirt area off of
the grass. You can also just take your puppy outside when you see that he/she is
getting in the pool and say “Let’s go potty” or whatever term you are going to use with
your puppy. As the puppy grows just move the
pool closer to the door you will be taking him/her out to relive him/herself.
Something to pick up puppy potty with when you are out on a walk… you can
purchase plastic poo bags at pet stores or you can just use your plastic grocery
shopping bags. Bags work well when you’re out-n-about with your dog, they fit
nicely in your glove box or pocket. A long handled scoop is nice to have at home.
Pets stain/odor remover and lots of paper towels or old rags you can re-use to clean up
accidents (chances are you’re gonna need it at least a few times)
Dog toys: squeaky ones are great as well as plush toys. They will be losing their
baby teeth and most definitely will need something to chew on. Be prepared to have to
replace toys that will probably get chewed up. Always watch or be around when your
puppy is chewing or playing with toys. Squeakers and stuffing can be pulled out and
swallowed very easily and can cause un-needed pain and suffering. If the toy has
‘seen better days’ it is probably time to throw it away and get a new one and not risk
the chance of inhaling parts of it.
Dog bed, but I suggest old or inexpensive blankets that can be washed and reused in
case of accidents or chewing. Then when the puppy is passed all that a dog bed or crib
mattress works great. I like the crib mattress because I can buy the vinyl, zippered
cover for them so accidents don’t soak through and they are easier to keep clean, less
dust and odor in your home. Changing a crib sheet is a lot easier and convenient than
taking a large dog bed to the laundry mat and over time is more cost effective. I keep
about 5 crib sheets on hand.
Grooming supplies: nail clippers, styptic powder/pencil (in case you clip the pup’s
nails to short). It’s a god idea to have your vet show you how to clip the puppy’s nails
(if you’ve never done it before), a brush, and puppy shampoo (tear free, hypoallergenic)
A potty training plan….Puppies do not have full control of their bladders until about 8
months of age. I suggest feeding on a schedule at first, it makes potty training
easier. When they are older I allow for free choice feeding so they can eat whenever
they choose to.
A good puppy/training book on hand as well as a Great Dane book.
Last but not least… Patience, Patience, Patience!!! A sense of humor doesn’t hurt
either.
If you have any questions now or in the future I am always available & happy to
answer your questions.
Cost of Owning A Dane
You can improvise on some things and not spend as much on certain items, but it this
list gives you a good, general idea. Remember everything is at a much larger scale
than a small dog. Of course you don’t have to go run out and buy everything on the
list. It just gives you an idea of how much things add up for owning a big dog. Please
do your homework. Prices are based on a monthly to a yearly basis and will vary
depending on where items are purchased. This is just a general guideline to give you
an idea of the costs of raising and caring for a Dane, so that ‘unexpected’ costs will
not shock or surprise you in the future.
How much will a Great Dane Puppy Cost?
Show Potential Puppy…$1800 to $3000 some are even $10,000.
Companion Pup….. $500 to $1,800.
Rescue - usually adult……$250-500.
Shipping: $350-650.00 one way. Pets must have a least one parvo vaccine, be eight
weeks of age, and must have a Health Certificate and exam before Flying. Check your
airlines regulations. Not all airlines ship pets.
Vet Costs: Pet Insurance……..$30+ a month. It will save you some money on
Vaccinations, exams,
x-rays & emergencies.
Heartworm pills …..$90
Puppy checkups and vaccines ….$100
Routine vet care - average ..$250
Advantage Flea and Tick control……
Spay/neuter …………….$200+
Cropping (if not paid by breeder)…………..$350 and up
Bloat Surgery……..$1200+
Puppy Training:
Baby Gate………… $40
Collars, at least 2 will cost…. $25
Six foot leash ……$15
Crate (Size 700#) …$134
Big dog wire crate 37 wide x 54 deep x 45 high…….$239.95
Crate Pad (for 700#)……. $50
ID tag……………$ 6
Dog license (pet=15 intact=40)….$15
Nature’s Miracle, stain remover……..$17.95 gallon
Obedience Classes ……..$100
Handling Classes $5 for each class (daily cost)
Pooper scooper……… $18
Anti-chew spray -Bitter Apple…….$4.99
Rolled up newspaper……..50 cents (Smack yourself with it when your puppy piddles
on the floor,
because... You were NOT watching!)
Puppy Feeding Supplies:
Dog Bowls (2)……. $30
Raised double bowl holder……$20 or use plant stands $9+
Premium adult dog food ($2.00-$4.00 per day)
Grooming Supplies: Nail Grinder, Dremmel …$60
Nail clippers….. $10.00 for large dog
Shampoos and bathing supplies …….$40
Brushes……… $5-10
Tooth Brush………….. 2.95
Tooth Paste………..3.95
Extras Toys (4 toys) ………$40+++
Fencing………… $500-1000++
Books about great Danes…..$20 each
Boarding 2 weeks minimum………….$280 (usually around $10-$12 a day.)
Ear Wrapping Supplies:
Tape by Johnson and Johnson. 1- 1 1/2inch……………1.89
Sharp and Bandage scissors
Skin Bond- Helps everything stick to the ear better.
Medi-Sol - Adhesive Remover. Goo Gone works as well. Helps to remove tape and Skin
Bond
easier. 4 OZ. $11.95
Alcohol-To clean pups ears inside and out.
Cotton Balls and Q-tips- Use with Alcohol to clean ears.
Astringent Ear powder-If your puppy’s ears are wet inside. Helps reduce ear odor. (This
is good
for uncropped ears as well).
Surgery performed by a vet: $400-$1200
Miscellaneous:
Treats…………$25-$75
Bedding for Dane size…..$30-90
You will need more than 4 toys ….$200
Chewed up reading glasses ….$200
SUV to transport Danes ………..$25,000+ (or other large vehicle)
New landscaping………..$2,500+++
New Furniture after the old ones get chewed up
Remote controls & Game controllers.
Eye glasses.
Leather designer shoes & purses.
New Carpet
Carpenter work, replacing chewed up decks and wood around the house.
Paint.
As you will soon find out when you invite a Dane to become a loving
part of your family, the costs don’t ever compare to the love, loyalty,
companionship and laughs that a Dane will bring to your life!!!!
| If it is not a Great Dane, It is just a dog! |
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